Breaking Down Beauty Jargon: Demystifying ‘Non-Toxic’ and ‘Derm-Approved'

by Dr. LaSonya Lopez, MD

December 12, 2024

Walk down any beauty aisle, and you’ll be hit with a wave of catchy terms—“non-toxic,” “derm-approved,” “clean beauty,” “natural,” and so on. The language of skincare marketing can be overwhelming, and with so many brands promising “safer” and “better” products, it’s hard to know what these terms actually mean. At Sheandis, we believe in transparency and making it easy for you to understand what’s in your products, so let’s break down two of the most common (and confusing) beauty buzzwords: “non-toxic” and “derm-approved.” By the end of this guide, you’ll be able to navigate the skincare world with confidence, armed with real knowledge about what these labels actually mean.

What Does ‘Non-Toxic’ Really Mean?

“Non-toxic” sounds reassuring—it implies that a product is free from ingredients that could harm you. However, the term “non-toxic” isn’t regulated by the FDA or any major health organizations, which means that brands can use it somewhat freely. Let’s dig deeper into what “non-toxic” should mean versus how it’s often used in marketing.

The True Meaning of ‘Non-Toxic’

In its purest sense, “non-toxic” means that a product is formulated without ingredients that are known to be harmful, dangerous, or toxic to human health. Toxic ingredients can refer to anything from carcinogens (cancer-causing substances) to allergens, irritants, or endocrine disruptors, which may interfere with hormones in the body.

However, here’s the tricky part: Toxicity depends on dosage. Nearly any ingredient can be harmful in high enough quantities, even something as harmless as water. The dose makes the poison, and most ingredients in cosmetics are used at concentrations deemed safe by regulatory bodies.

Why ‘Non-Toxic’ is Misleading

Since there’s no regulatory definition for “non-toxic” in cosmetics, brands can label products as non-toxic based on their own criteria. Sometimes, a product labeled non-toxic may simply lack one or two controversial ingredients, even if it still includes ingredients that might be irritants or allergens for some people.

To further complicate things, some natural ingredients can be irritating or cause reactions. Just because a product is “non-toxic” or “natural” doesn’t mean it’s universally safe for all skin types, especially for those with sensitivities.

Common Ingredients Excluded from ‘Non-Toxic’ Beauty Products

Many brands that market themselves as “non-toxic” tend to avoid specific categories of ingredients that are linked to health concerns. Here are a few common ingredients that non-toxic beauty products often exclude:

1. Parabens: These preservatives help products last longer, but some studies suggest they may disrupt hormones in the body.

2. Phthalates: Often found in fragrances, phthalates are also considered potential endocrine disruptors.

3. Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-Releasing Agents: Known to be carcinogenic, these ingredients are rarely used today but can still be found in some beauty products.

4. Synthetic Fragrances: Since synthetic fragrances can be irritating, non-toxic brands may opt for essential oils or fragrance-free formulas.

5. Sulfates (like SLS and SLES): Commonly used in cleansers, sulfates can be drying and irritating for sensitive skin types.

6. Mineral Oil: Although not inherently harmful, mineral oil is a petroleum by-product, and some consumers prefer plant-based oils.

   
   

Remember that not all of these ingredients are universally harmful; rather, some consumers prefer to avoid them out of caution. If a product claims to be non-toxic, it often means the brand has made a conscious decision to omit specific ingredients for perceived safety, even though those ingredients may not be harmful in regulated doses.

What is ‘Derm-Approved’?

“Derm-approved” or “dermatologist-approved” is another term that you’ll see frequently in skincare marketing. At face value, it suggests that a product has been reviewed or endorsed by a dermatologist. This sounds reassuring, but here’s what you need to know to truly understand what “derm-approved” means.

The Real Meaning of ‘Derm-Approved’

When a product is labeled “derm-approved,” it typically means that a dermatologist has either consulted on the formula or reviewed the product to ensure it meets specific dermatological standards. This may involve checking that the product doesn’t contain common irritants or ingredients known to cause allergic reactions, or confirming that the formula is appropriate for certain skin types.

However, “derm-approved” doesn’t mean that every dermatologist agrees on a product’s effectiveness or that it’s been clinically proven. In some cases, “derm-approved” simply means that a dermatologist consulted on the brand’s products overall or endorsed the product for marketing purposes. There’s no standard definition or criteria for what makes a product “derm-approved,” so it’s worth investigating further.

How Derm-Approval Works in the Beauty Industry

• Product Testing: Some “derm-approved” products undergo clinical testing, where they’re tested on a variety of skin types to ensure they’re safe for sensitive skin. However, not all “derm-approved” products go through rigorous testing.

• Dermatologist Endorsement: Sometimes, a brand will collaborate with a specific dermatologist to endorse the product line or serve as a spokesperson, lending credibility to the brand.

• Formulation Review: In some cases, dermatologists review the ingredients for safety and efficacy. For example, a dermatologist might look for formulas that are non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores) or fragrance-free.

  
  

Navigating ‘Non-Toxic’ and ‘Derm-Approved’ in Your Skincare Choices

Now that we’ve broken down these terms, how can you use this information to make better choices? Here are a few tips for navigating the beauty aisle with a critical eye:

1. Look for Transparency

Brands that are truly dedicated to non-toxic, derm-approved skincare are typically transparent about their ingredients and formulation process. Check if the brand offers details on why they exclude certain ingredients, or if they provide access to third-party testing.

2. Do Your Own Ingredient Research

You don’t have to be a chemist to understand basic skincare ingredients. Apps like Think Dirty and EWG’s Skin Deep can help you understand the safety ratings of various ingredients and give you a sense of what’s truly “non-toxic.”

3. Focus on What Works for Your Skin Type

Just because a product is non-toxic or derm-approved doesn’t mean it’s right for your skin type. Pay attention to what your skin responds well to. Sometimes, highly-rated, non-toxic products may still irritate certain skin types, while conventional products might work perfectly for others.

4. Don’t Be Swayed by ‘Greenwashing’

Greenwashing is when brands use eco-friendly or “natural” branding to market products that aren’t necessarily safer or more effective. Just because something is labeled non-toxic or eco-friendly doesn’t mean it’s the best choice for your skin.

Final Thoughts: Make Informed Choices

The world of skincare jargon can be overwhelming, but with a bit of knowledge, you can cut through the marketing noise. “Non-toxic” products can offer peace of mind, especially for those avoiding specific ingredients, but remember that the term itself isn’t a guarantee of safety. Similarly, “derm-approved” can indicate a product was reviewed by a professional, but it doesn’t necessarily mean the product has gone through extensive testing.

At Sheandis, we’re committed to being transparent about our ingredients and formulations. Our approach is to prioritize what’s safe and effective for all skin types, free from unnecessary irritants, and supported by ingredients that deliver real results. We believe that when you’re informed, you can make the best choices for your skin, and that’s what true beauty empowerment is all about.